The Crying Lip
Wet-To-Dry Eye Shadow: A Guide
Wet-to-dry eye shadows need not be complicated. While it might sound like yet another technique one must master in order to navigate a makeup counter, perhaps it’s better to think of it as a two-for-one deal.
Wear it dry, and you’ve got your standard dusting of color—classic and predictable (in a good way). But wet! Wearing it wet opens a whole new world of opportunity. „What you’re doing is bringing out the pigmented nature of the shadow,“ makeup artist Vincent Oquendo says. „Whenever I wet an eye shadow, it’s when I really want it to pop—but it really has to be a special kind of product to be able to blend after it sets. Because a lot of the times when it sets, you get streaking.“ Nobody wants that. In order to avoid any wet shadow mishaps, follow these guidelines:
Product
First, go with the obvious: any eye shadow labeled wet-to-dry. The Nars Dual-Intensity line is the standout—the singles come in 12 different shimmery shades, and there’s a corresponding brush (then there’s the newly released Dual Intensity Blush line, which was all over Fashion Week—but that’s a product for another post). Burberry also makes a few very versatile shades specifically for this in their Wet & Dry Silk Shadows. And the technique-specific eye shadow category isn’t just a ploy to get you to buy more product. „You can’t just use any eye shadow for this,“ Vincent says. „Certain ones will harden up on top and become unusable because they’re not made for this.“
Baked shadows are also fair game—we’re fans of Laura Mercier’s Baked Eye Colour Wet/Dry and Lorac’s Starry-Eyed Baked Eye Shadow Trio in particular.
For more advanced players, Vincent suggests moving on to straight pigment (MAC or even OCC’s Pure Cosmetic Pigments). With the added moisture, they’ll become easier to layer with other products. For a look with more depth, try using a cream shadow as a based before swiping with a wet powder shadow. „It’s like insurance,“ Vincent says. „You’re doubling your wearability.“
Brush
This all depends on exactly what you want to do. „Mind the resistance,“ Vincent says, particularly if you’re looking for uniform color across the lid. „I tend to recommend a blender brush, which is the brush that looks like a feather duster. If you do it with a stiff brush, you’re defeating yourself before you even start. The joy of a wet-to-dry is you have to get it right amount of product loaded up, and then it blends itself. If the brush is too stiff, it will leave the shadow streaky and then much harder to control.“
However, if tightlining or waterlining is in the cards, a much thinner brush is required accordingly.
Liquid
Do not, repeat, do not put eye drops, water, or any other sort of liquid directly on your eye shadow. This’ll screw up your product for later use. „Lately, I’ve been wetting the brush with the Glossier Soothing Face Mist, but Evian Mineral Water Spray is good for sensitive eyes,“ Vincent says. If the top of your powder does get a little hardened by wet application, there’s a trick to remove it: Get a clean mascara spoolie and „exfoliate“ your compact, Vincent recommends. This won’t crack the compact and will make it ready to go once more.
Photographed by Tom Newton.
The Best Drugstore Mascaras
Here’s a fun thing to do: Buy a whole basket full of drugstore mascaras, dump them on a table, and stare at them through a kaleidoscope.
For one, the packaging is crazy—like an explosion at the neon plastic factory, resulting in a bunch of really great, tactile pieces you can’t stop picking up and dropping in your purse. That’s at least half the fun. The other half of the fun? Being able to afford three different tubes for three different lash looks (which, quite frankly, are just as good as what you’ll find at a department store makeup counter) that you can pull out at will. Many applications later, here’s what’s worth your time—“just OK“ contenders weeded out—no matter what lash type you’re looking to suit. (But just in case we missed any or some new „technological breakthrough“ in mascara came out today, please drop us a line below.)
Best for short lashes: Physicians Formula Organic Wear 100% Natural Origin Mascara
The marriage of the rubberized bristles on a thicker, football-shaped wand makes it easier to reach all lashes, no matter how flat they might seem. Good for making the most of what you’ve got and also for not irritating eyes if they tend toward sensitivity.
Good for your run-of-the-mill, average lashes: Covergirl Lashblast Clump Crusher
It’s all in the name—the classic, squishy, plastic bristles of the Covergirl Lashblast line in tandem with a slightly curved wand design makes the formula go on effortlessly and, quite truly, sans clumping. The formula is not goopy, rather light but goes on dark and coats your lashes evenly and, because of the aforementioned wand, leaves you with full-looking, feathery lashes.
You’ve got length, but you want curl: Maybelline Volum‘ Express The Colossal Washable Mascara
Maybelline could provide answers for each and every category here as their offerings are the most widespread and universally pleasing, but the thick yellow tube has so much going for it, it can’t be willfully ignored. The brush is along the lines of your classic bristle varietal but with a little more heft, and the product distributes in a way best described as feathery.
Sparse lashes looking for company: L’Oréal Voluminous Butterfly Mascara
This brush is the most technological of the bunch (but sans battery-powered, eye-endangering vibrational ability). It’s an architectural work of art—there’s so many bristle types and twists and turns. It’s a fiber mascara, meaning the formula coats your lashes without tubing or looking false. In fact, the little fibers are so tiny, you cant even see them even when they stretch your lashes out farther than you’d expect.
Best for lashes dealing with decision fatigue: NYX Provocateur
This tube is from NYX’s Boudoir Mascara Collection, which as you can imagine is designed in mind to give you bedroom eyes. It gives you two lash options from a single mascara brush. Pull out Level One for gloopier, heavier lashes, or use Level Two, which really just involves pulling that same brush through a tube that cleans a lot of excess product off (saving you the trouble of wiping on the mouth of the tube and making a mess), to help separate lashes. The effect is certainly woodland-animal fantasy lashes that don’t flake off or irritate your eyes. Plus, it only comes in one shade, saving you from making one more decision while standing in the makeup aisle.
When I was a teenager, I actually ended up in beauty school.
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